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Stuart,
The PWD II comes from the factory with some type of fancy audiophile fuse (gold caps and a cermic body). I think the glass fuse in the analogue board sounds in the direction of a little leaner/faster/more extended than the audiophile fuse which was smoother. I did feel there is a subtle but audible difference.
As a neuroscientist, I am very skeptical of the statement made above.
I have no intention of A/B'ing fuses and at best the difference is very small. But I do like the look of a nice, shiny glass fuse compared to the ceramic body on the audiophile fuse. And if the glass fuse blows, you can see it and not have to break out a voltmeter like with the ceramic fuse. The wire in the fuse is TINY, you can barely see it.
Since it is a slowblow fuse, I wonder if a breaker would be about as fast?
In any event, DAC works perfectly know so something about the earlier firmware was causing the digital board to pull more current at startup?
Stuart Polansky wrote:
Hey, hey! Since putting in the 5A fuese in place of the 1A fuse gave you all that extra oomph, why not replace your 15 amp household circuit breakers with 70 amp ones, your 20 amp ones with 100 amp ones, and your 200 amp main with a 1000 amp one? Think of all that extra oomph!
Danger, Danger Will Robinson!
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Seriously, if fuse size makes an audible difference, and it may, the wire gauge is awfully tiny, How feasible would it be to have a large gauge wire (say, #12 AWG), run through a toroid to trip a relay when the current passes a certain threshold?
Does this exist? I'm guessing that it does, but may be quite expensive. Kind of like a circuit breaker, but adjustable to the users' needed threshold and without the thermal trip.
I'm going to regret this post, I know it.