DCAudioDIY.com

DC Area Audio DIYer's Community
It is currently May 23rd, 2024, 4:09 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 13 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: April 22nd, 2016, 8:15 am 
Offline

Joined: March 12th, 2013, 11:12 am
Posts: 738
I was listening to different firmware versions on my DAC and a fuse blew during an upload. Are there any local places in the DC area that have these in stock? Radioshack does not carry them anymore, they basically just sell cellphones and cases at this point.

I got a couple off Amazon that will arrive Saturday but I want to get these replaced as soon as possible to see if this was some odd fluke or if something really went bad?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: April 22nd, 2016, 8:38 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: December 14th, 2013, 2:19 pm
Posts: 959
http://www.markelectronics.com/product_p/lkg_ef1010.htm


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: April 22nd, 2016, 8:58 am 
Offline
Site Admin
User avatar

Joined: February 28th, 2013, 10:38 am
Posts: 1697
You might also check your local auto parts stores....

Roscoe

_________________
I can explain it to you, but I can’t understand it for you.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: April 22nd, 2016, 10:11 am 
Offline

Joined: March 12th, 2013, 11:12 am
Posts: 738
Well it appears to be an issue with the older firmware version I was trying to audition. It would initialize but the first time I restarted the DAC, the digital board fuse would blow.

At this point, I said screw it and took the 1A analogue board fuse (which was working fine) and placed it in the digital board and then placed a 5A fuse (I know, I know but the analogue board was working fine) and reinitialized/restarted with current firmware. It works fine and has been restarted a couple times now, no hiccups. I am glad I dont have a $4k paperweight. Will pop in a 1A fuse in the analogue board when they arrive tomorrow but for now I am enjoying all the extra oomph I am getting from that big 5A fuse in the analogue board. :sad-roulette:


Last edited by TubeDriver on April 23rd, 2016, 3:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: April 22nd, 2016, 10:39 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: December 14th, 2013, 2:19 pm
Posts: 959
Hey, hey! Since putting in the 5A fuese in place of the 1A fuse gave you all that extra oomph, why not replace your 15 amp household circuit breakers with 70 amp ones, your 20 amp ones with 100 amp ones, and your 200 amp main with a 1000 amp one? Think of all that extra oomph!

Danger, Danger Will Robinson!
Attachment:
robot.jpg
robot.jpg [ 42.74 KiB | Viewed 25536 times ]


Seriously, if fuse size makes an audible difference, and it may, the wire gauge is awfully tiny, How feasible would it be to have a large gauge wire (say, #12 AWG), run through a toroid to trip a relay when the current passes a certain threshold?

Does this exist? I'm guessing that it does, but may be quite expensive. Kind of like a circuit breaker, but adjustable to the users' needed threshold and without the thermal trip.

I'm going to regret this post, I know it.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: April 22nd, 2016, 10:55 am 
Offline

Joined: March 12th, 2013, 11:12 am
Posts: 738
[/img]

Stuart,
The PWD II comes from the factory with some type of fancy audiophile fuse (gold caps and a cermic body). I think the glass fuse in the analogue board sounds in the direction of a little leaner/faster/more extended than the audiophile fuse which was smoother. I did feel there is a subtle but audible difference.

As a neuroscientist, I am very skeptical of the statement made above.

I have no intention of A/B'ing fuses and at best the difference is very small. But I do like the look of a nice, shiny glass fuse compared to the ceramic body on the audiophile fuse. And if the glass fuse blows, you can see it and not have to break out a voltmeter like with the ceramic fuse. The wire in the fuse is TINY, you can barely see it.

Since it is a slowblow fuse, I wonder if a breaker would be about as fast?

In any event, DAC works perfectly know so something about the earlier firmware was causing the digital board to pull more current at startup?






Stuart Polansky wrote:
Hey, hey! Since putting in the 5A fuese in place of the 1A fuse gave you all that extra oomph, why not replace your 15 amp household circuit breakers with 70 amp ones, your 20 amp ones with 100 amp ones, and your 200 amp main with a 1000 amp one? Think of all that extra oomph!

Danger, Danger Will Robinson!
Attachment:
The attachment robot.jpg is no longer available


Seriously, if fuse size makes an audible difference, and it may, the wire gauge is awfully tiny, How feasible would it be to have a large gauge wire (say, #12 AWG), run through a toroid to trip a relay when the current passes a certain threshold?

Does this exist? I'm guessing that it does, but may be quite expensive. Kind of like a circuit breaker, but adjustable to the users' needed threshold and without the thermal trip.

I'm going to regret this post, I know it.


Attachments:
image.jpeg
image.jpeg [ 1.3 MiB | Viewed 25533 times ]
Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: April 22nd, 2016, 11:17 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: December 14th, 2013, 2:19 pm
Posts: 959
[quote="TubeDriver"][/img]
I did feel there is a subtle but audible difference.

The wire in the fuse is TINY, you can barely see it.

Since it is a slowblow fuse, I wonder if a breaker would be about as fast?]


Fuses are very fast acting, but a circuit breaker CAN be fast as well. Standard household circuit breakers are inverse time, effectively slow-blow. The greater the current, the faster the trip. 21 amps on a twenty amp breaker may never trip, or it may take days, depends on a lot like the ambient temperature around the breaker, temperature of adjacent breakers, how good the bus connection is, etc.

BUT, if you are building an audiophile breaker, it can be "programmable", to suit immediate and changing needs. Use high quality relay contacts, Cardas Litz wire, if that floats your boat, etc. for the signal. Run it though a toroid and monitor the current. Set trip levels and time delay as you like.

I'm sure the smart guys on here can do it with their eyes closed. I've a couple of crude ideas.....

BTW: GFCI circuit breakers and receptacles use such a scheme (toroid) and trip with differential currents of 4-6mA and with trip times of under 1/10th of a second. So it can be done


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: April 22nd, 2016, 11:42 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: July 24th, 2015, 4:17 pm
Posts: 1709
Location: Parkville, Maryland
I've had great success with sand-filled fuses in terms of sonic improvement. They out-perform the Hi-Fi Tuning Fuse product and are dirt cheap.

Go on eBay and search on <sand filled fuses>.

Or -- click on this link:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/23-PC-FUSE-F520 ... Swr7ZW6ex4

Since you need 1-amp. slo-blo -- a 2-amp. fast blow should get the job done without the specter of burning something out. :thumbup:

Since you have bigger "stones" than I do -- you already tested with a 5-amp. fuse so it seems that your piece is OK. :o

Apparently a turn-on surge exceeded the limit of your slo-blo 1-amp. fuse. I am not surprised since the manufacturing tolerance is about +/- 20%.

_________________
Walt


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: April 22nd, 2016, 11:59 am 
Offline

Joined: March 12th, 2013, 11:12 am
Posts: 738
Is the sand supposed to damp the fuse element?

SoundMods wrote:
I've had great success with sand-filled fuses in terms of sonic improvement. They out-perform the Hi-Fi Tuning Fuse product and are dirt cheap.

Go on eBay and search on <sand filled fuses>.

Or -- click on this link:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/23-PC-FUSE-F520 ... Swr7ZW6ex4

Since you need 1-amp. slo-blo -- a 2-amp. fast blow should get the job done without the specter of burning something out. :thumbup:

Since you have bigger "stones" than I do -- you already tested with a 5-amp. fuse so it seems that your piece is OK. :o

Apparently a turn-on surge exceeded the limit of your slo-blo 1-amp. fuse. I am not surprised since the manufacturing tolerance is about +/- 20%.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: April 22nd, 2016, 12:17 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: July 24th, 2015, 4:17 pm
Posts: 1709
Location: Parkville, Maryland
Yes. The top-of-the-line Hi-Fi Tuning fuses has a silver (not nichrome) element inside shrink tubing. I was hooked on the Hi-Fi Tuning Fuse products until I discovered the sand-filled fuses.

They do improve the sound -- in some cases it's a subtle improvement and others an easily identifiable improvement. The sand-filled definitely either equal the Hi-Fi Tuning Fuse product or better it.

That's the trouble with this hobby -- the Devil :twisted: is in the details.

_________________
Walt


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 13 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 10 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
cron
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group