Open Baffle Planar servo sub speaker project

[tomp]

For that many holes it might pay to make a jig.

Tom

[HAL]

Going to give this a try.

Attachments

[tomp]

I have used that tool before which will help keep the holes perpendicular but a hole jig will make precise positioning easier. I would make the jig the size of the driver with small holes to just start the main holes. I would then mount one driver and use the jig to make the next set of pilot holes. If you place the next driver against the first and the pilot holes line up you are good to go. I would drill and mount only one at a time because small errors can grow when you have so many drivers to mount.

Tom

[HAL]

Tom,
I have placed all 8 drivers on the baffle end-to-end and will mark all the hole positions. Once those are done, remove the drivers, nail set the start hole in the center of each before drilling to guide the bit. After that, use the drill adaptor to do the holes. The planar is it's own jig in this case.

[David McGown]

Probably too late to chime in, but Tom is right concerning using a template. I know from experience that using a hand punch on wood will result in some mispositioning, since the punch will follow the grain of the wood (as will the drill). Depending on your tolerances, you may find holes not lining up with the driver. I would fabricate a template the same external dimension as the driver from some aluminum or brass plate or even 1/4 thick hardwood and carefully mark (or precisely layout based on the technical drawing) and drill out the holes to the driver. Then mark the driver positions on the baffle, position template, and drill out the holes using the template as a guide. You will get much less drift since the drill bit will be supported at the hole rather that at the chuck of the drill. It is time well spent, and will save time in the end.

David

[Roscoe Primrose]

One word:

Glue

Roscoe

[SoundMods]

Another two cents worth. The metal template is a superb piece of advice. You should not try to mark your placement and holes with the drivers themselves.

Just saying.

[HAL]

Guy's,
That is an excellent suggestion, but I have no metal working tools or skills. I am lucky I can drill the wood. I just picked up the drill guide today.

If someone knows somebody that can make a metal template for a BG Neo10 and BG Neo3-PDR drivers, I would be interested.

Roscoe,
No Glue! It has a compression gasket to mount it.

[SoundMods]

I can help you with that task. That's the good news. The bad news is because of billable work I won't be able to touch the project until the last week of May.

I can do it for you with aluminum sheet. I would drill small holes about the diameter of a punch. You place the template than use the guide holes to either mark the drill points with a punch or magic marker.

[Stuart Polansky]

I'd be happy to help, but I'm a bit far away. If that works for you, then lets do it.

I wouldn't use aluminum sheet, no better than marking with a pencil and a sheet of paper.

Try this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-X-6-ALUMINU ... SwwbdWO6g7

At 1/2" thick, the jig becomes a guide for the bit into the hole and stopping the bit from walking.

We can drill it on my press, accurately.

As to Roscoe and "glue"......he couldn't be serious about gluing metal drivers into a wooden frame.

He may just be hungry and remembering fondly those schoolboy days of eating paste.