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PostPosted: December 30th, 2018, 10:19 pm 
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Paul is right. We are making this unnecessarily difficult.

Ignore every said about crossover assembly and stuffing.
Look at this parts express video about assembling the crossover. You can get the particle boards and glue guns at Micheals.
https://www.parts-express.com/DisplayProductVideo.aspx?VideoID=1312&zpid=11918

After the crossover is working, play around with stuffing polyfill.


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PostPosted: December 30th, 2018, 10:44 pm 
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If we are talking about finishing mdf I like two methods. For the bezels (speaker mounting surfaces) I like shellac with dye. If you want black after sanding apply black from large indelible magic marker then use dyed shellac (you can just rub it on with a cloth). Also use Formica with contact cement. Then you need a trim router with a ball bearing bit to cut it to exact size after gluing it on the mdf.

All the speakers in the photo were finished with of combination of the two methods.


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PostPosted: December 31st, 2018, 8:09 am 
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You do not need a printed circuit board for good construction techniques. You do need how to connect wires to components and solder correctly. Many very good commercial speakers are made this way.
Baby steps, and one at a time.


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PostPosted: December 31st, 2018, 10:08 am 
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Who said anything about printed circuit boards? Perf boards are actually easier to use than gluing components. Just stick the leads through the holes and solder on the bottom. The perf boards hold the leads in place while soldering making it easier. To change a component, just unsolder from the bottom, put the new component through the holes and re-solder. Couldn't be easier. When you are finished experimenting you can permanently fasten the components to the same board in the same locations. Viola, done.


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PostPosted: December 31st, 2018, 1:09 pm 
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tomp wrote:
Who said anything about printed circuit boards? Perf boards are actually easier to use than gluing components. Just stick the leads through the holes and solder on the bottom. The perf boards hold the leads in place while soldering making it easier. To change a component, just unsolder from the bottom, put the new component through the holes and re-solder. Couldn't be easier. When you are finished experimenting you can permanently fasten the components to the same board in the same locations. Viola, done.


You are correct, but doesn't this level of information overwhelm a newbee?


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PostPosted: December 31st, 2018, 1:21 pm 
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Voice od reason from an unusual source LOL :o :think: :crazy: :? :think: :violin: :( :D :snooty:


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PostPosted: December 31st, 2018, 2:27 pm 
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A newbee will have a harder time positioning components, holding them in place and soldering them on a solid board than a perf board. That is why they make them. They make prototyping and component changes vastly simpler. I'm sure anyone can figure out how to put a component lead through a hole especially when there are lots of them to cover any size requirement. With either a solid board or a perf board, you still have to figure out the layout and connections. Unless you have a pre-made PC board where the developer has already laid out the components you will have to figure out the layout.

Having the perf board is also lighter and easier to handle outside the speaker enclosure. The use of a perf board has nothing to do with the choice of components or other decisions that occur when putting a speaker together. I have no stock in the companies that make perf boards. I just have a lot of experience prototyping all types of electronic circuits before going the next step and perf boards of any type have always been the easiest and most straightforward way to do that. But everyone should learn for themselves.


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PostPosted: December 31st, 2018, 3:31 pm 
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tomp wrote:
A newbee will have a harder time positioning components, holding them in place and soldering them on a solid board than a perf board. That is why they make them. They make prototyping and component changes vastly simpler. I'm sure anyone can figure out how to put a component lead through a hole especially when there are lots of them to cover any size requirement. With either a solid board or a perf board, you still have to figure out the layout and connections. Unless you have a pre-made PC board where the developer has already laid out the components you will have to figure out the layout.

Having the perf board is also lighter and easier to handle outside the speaker enclosure. The use of a perf board has nothing to do with the choice of components or other decisions that occur when putting a speaker together. I have no stock in the companies that make perf boards. I just have a lot of experience prototyping all types of electronic circuits before going the next step and perf boards of any type have always been the easiest and most straightforward way to do that. But everyone should learn for themselves.


Tom -- the horse is dead. Experience is the best teacher. This blog has already conveyed a wealth of advice that can be put to good use. mix4fix needs to understand that the persons contributing to his inquiries have a boat load of experience that is very difficult to convey without person-to-person coaching. He needs to take time to carefully plan the project before pulling the trigger on ordering parts. For him to transfer blame because we cannot possibly know what he knows and what he doesn't know is certainly not productive. Plus it can also discourage those that wish to help.

The words of wisdom for mix4fix -- Plan your work -- Work your plan. But before any of that -- practice soldering skills -- get to understand schematics -- look into the different methods discussed here and decide what you're more comfortable with -- designing a crossover is not for the faint of heart so locate established designs that can work for your speakers based on the drivers you'll be using -- etc. Get the project done on paper first -- mistakes are much easier to correct on paper. Even after all that you may not like the end result. That's where tweaking and trials comes to dial in a finished project. There too many variables that can impact every aspect of the speaker and its intended purpose to reproduce music. :character-oldtimer:

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Walt


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PostPosted: December 31st, 2018, 3:51 pm 
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Just remember to put inductors at right angles if there are more than one


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PostPosted: December 31st, 2018, 4:54 pm 
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SoundMods wrote:

He needs to take time to carefully plan the project before pulling the trigger on ordering parts.


Disagree. He is not modifying the PE kit, he is just buying the missing caps and inductors.

These speakers are designed and sold by Dayton via PartsExpress for years. They have more experience on these speakers than all of our group combined. We seem to be forgetting the fact, Steve has all the help and expertise he needs on these at PE for free. We are giving him advice as if he is starting a project on his own from scratch.

My advice to steve is, turn off DCAUDIODIY and interact with PE support forums. At least there he would not be advised 10 ways to skin the cat.


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