May 4th, 2020, 10:36 am
May 4th, 2020, 10:45 am
Pelliott321 wrote:thanks Pooge
this is what I thought
May 4th, 2020, 11:01 am
May 4th, 2020, 11:05 am
Stuart Polansky wrote:mix4fix wrote:Whose bright idea was it to tie an entire room into a bathroom GFI?
I couldn't find the post to which you are referring.
GFCI receptacles installed in bathrooms are to have no outlets outside of bathrooms connected to them.
Does this help?
Stuart
May 4th, 2020, 11:10 am
Pelliott321 wrote:ok I will look
if this is not the case I can insulate the socket mounting for now or when I get to it.
May 4th, 2020, 11:17 am
mix4fix wrote:Stuart Polansky wrote:mix4fix wrote:Whose bright idea was it to tie an entire room into a bathroom GFI?
I couldn't find the post to which you are referring.
GFCI receptacles installed in bathrooms are to have no outlets outside of bathrooms connected to them.
Does this help?
Stuart
It was a rant. My bedroom is connected to the bathroom GFI.
May 4th, 2020, 11:21 am
May 4th, 2020, 11:28 am
May 4th, 2020, 12:40 pm
Stuart Polansky wrote:
I see now that you have paralleled the output windings. No sweat, but now you must make a ground connection, since this is a separately derived system. The rule is, at the SOURCE of the separately derived system (that is, within the isolation transformer enclosure) you must bond together the grounded and grounding conductors: the white and the green. So, you've used the brown and orange leads as your neutral. 1) Mark them with white tape, to indicate a neutral. 2) Connect a green set of conductors to the brown/orange connection and connect them to the receptacle ground pins. Disconnect 3) Disconnect the building grounds from the receptacle ground pins (that being the green wire from the power cord. 4) Connect a green or bare wire from the green/brown/orange splice to the grounding electrode system in the house. You can make this connection using a ground clamp on the cold water pipe, close to the existing clamp; in the main circuit breaker panel, on the bonding jumper (neutral bar), or spliced with a split bolt connector (commonly called a "bug"), right onto the grounding electrode conductor (wires running from the circuit breaker panel to the grounding means (rods, cold water, etc.)
All of the above is a must and the only challenging part should be the long wire to "ground".
May 4th, 2020, 1:53 pm