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Pete,

Yes, it was a pair of Boos maple cutting boards I ordered from Amazon for cheap and I made the maple sides help keep the speaker from slipping off. I sanded them down and used several coats of hard wax (carnuba). The footers I bought previously. It was a few minutes with the tablesaw for the maple side, plus some hand beveling with a plane, sanding, and the same wax finish. I did drill out the sides of the cutting board and screwed in threaded inserts for attaching the sides with the brass bolts. Also using Herbies Fat Dots between the speaker and the platform.

David

David, Where did you get the outboard metal plates and feet? Thanks.

I like your idea of a wax finish. In my new room, all the equipment except for my turntable, preamp and control panel is in the basement. I just built an enclosure for the pre and control panel with a solid red oak front and red oak laminated plywood sides. I stained the red oak with walnut stain to more closely match the custom base for my turntable which is walnut veneer. All are finished with Watco oil and then after about 4 days waxed using Briwax. I found out about Briwax from a friend in the UK who does antique furniture refinishing. Works great.

Tom

https://briwax.com/

Pete,

Soundocity https://soundocity.com/

Tom,

I have used dark Briwax for staining along with a finish, but find that it is not a very hard wax, so usually let it dry and use a good hard wax to finish. The other thing I use quite a bit if I have a bit more time is a rubbed polyurethane varnish. It applies nice and thin, drys in a couple hours, and can rub down with 400 grit sandpaper or steel wool between coats (at least 2 better 3). Let dry, rub down with 000 steel wool, and apply a good hard wax and you have a really no fuss finish that doesn't create alot of mess. I have gone from a sanded piece to finished piece in a day.

David

Thanks David!

A slightly different approach. If I am going to modify the color I use a separate stain. Subsequent finishes are clear. When I am applying the Watco oil, the first coat is with a rag. The second coat is applied with 0000 steel wool to remove any nubs that may have come up with the first application. I also use 0000 steel wool to apply the Briwax. Since the audio gear is not furniture and will not have things put on it, I have found the Briwax to be sufficient. I can understand that it may not be durable enough for things like table tops. Never tried the rubbed polyurethane finish. Sounds interesting. I like that you finish with fine sandpaper or steel wool to remove any gloss before waxing. I always found that the wax adds a luster rather than a shine that makes it look more like real wood than plastic.

Tom

You might also consider clear shellac with TransTint alcohol soluble dyes for the shellac.

https://homesteadfinishingproducts.com/ ... quid-dyes/

Looks like a great product. It is especially interesting that it mixes well with aliphatic glues. Only problem seems to be it is on the expensive side unless you have a lot of wood to tint.

Tom

Tom, That's beautiful woodwork on the equipment cabinet!

Brombo,

That dye looks pretty interesting. I have not worked with dyes before, in either in a shellac or as a wood dye. I have heard (not tried) that this is the best way of staining Baltic Birch plywood since normal oil or water stains are so blotchy. So many things to try.

David