DCAudioDIY.com

The calipers are working again, so time for some drilling.

Going to use the Neo10 as the template, mark the holes and use the V-Drilling guide clamped in position with the hand drill to do the first driver. Wrap it with Glad Wrap and then install it. Then stack the second driver and repeat the process.

_________________
Walt

After really looking at the Neo10's, they have slots for the mounting screws, not just holes like the drawing from BG. The FPS planars had holes for mounting screws, so they were tough to get correctly drilled. These have more adjustment range, so this drilling method should work fine.

BG Neo10 install has started. Using the Neo10 as it's own template, mark the center of each screw hole with a nail set. Remove the driver and drill the hole with the V-Drill guide. Install the Neo10 gasket and then wrap in Glad Wrap. Use the #4 square drive screws for mounting. Leave the Glad Wrap until all the drivers are installed for protection.

First two drivers installed and 6 more to go for the first side. This is going to take awhile!

Do the Neo10s have the pop rivets sticking through the back like the Neo8s?

Assuming that they don't, since you haven't mentioned drilling recesses for them. They drive me nuts, since they are not a regular shape, and vary from rivet to rivet.

Your build looks awesome, I can't wait to hear it!

Stuart

Stuart,
The Neo10's have the pop rivets as well.

That is why I put the gasket on the back side of the driver to get some seal against the baffle. I cut out the gasket for the connector block and then attached it to the back of the driver with the self adhesive on the gasket.

Can only do a few at a time since I have to sit on the floor to do the drilling. The back is not what is use to be.

More tonight and tomorrow.

I would not use the gasket between the driver and the baffle.
The seal is needed if the driver was in a box. I feel do not want to isolate the diver. you want the baffle to absorb the energy to dissipate it. I went through this when I rebuilt my Maggy's.

The rivets are actually higher than the gasket. So this only helps fill the gap between the sides of the Neo10 and the baffle. No real isolation in this case.

It's a VERY thin gasket IIRC

To follow up with Paul and completely agree, when I rebuilt my own Maggies, I replaced the staples which hold the drivers to the frames with "L" shaped aluminum angles. The movement of the drivers in the frame was very real. Stopping this motion, along with treating the rear of the drivers (between the air gaps) with vibration absorbing composites made a very noticeable improvement in clarity and dynamics.

Secure your drivers tightly!

The last picture I grabbed from the web. It is NOT a picture of my Tympanis. It just shows the original shitty method used to hold the drivers.