tomp wrote:
Pelliott321 wrote:
I would go passive first to see if I like the character or the speaker. Just purchase the best possible components you can afford. You can do much better than the prebuilt ones that PE sells. For the tweeter get a good cap, not Dayton or Solen. This will make the biggest difference in sound.
I disagree on the caps. I used Dayton audio in the eggs and people at the show who heard them were impressed. Remember when we did the blind test on speaker caps at Davids and no one could hear the difference between the so called crappy Russian caps and the golden standards.
Okay, here we go. Time for me to piss off everyone.
1) Tom, I know we disagree about caps. I have no doubt that there is a difference in caps. The test performed at David B.'s house was flawed in several ways. Nevertheless, unless memory fails me, most in the room "guessed" over 50%. David B over 70% IIRC. But in any event, it was a flawed test.
At that test there was no "golden standard". There was nothing close to a Duelund Cast, Jensen, Mundorf Supreme Silver/oil, V-Cap, etc.; nothing of the sort.
1a) Tom, your logic about the Eggs at the show is flawed. Just because "people at the show" liked what they heard does not mean that there is not an improvement to be had with better grade caps, resistors and even wiring. These are all imperfect components, but as you know too well, line level active crossovers are superior to any speaker level passive crossover. Especially when used with a unit like you have which can be programmed with all sorts of phase corrections, filters etc. We will continue to disagree on this, I have no doubt. I'll let it go there.
2) Having said that, Steve is unlikely to be spending the money on a high end cap. In the sizes he needs: 10uF & 20uF, Solens and Daytons are the likely choices. He could use multiples of 5uF in other cap brands, but again, we are talking about serious money for any of them.
If I'm making a suggestion (!), not that my personal opinion means shit, but I'd suggest a Mundorf Supreme. Sonicraft sells them for $66+ Each in 10uF size, so $400 for the project using $275 speakers. That seems a bit silly, eh? So why not use those Russian caps and use Russian Teflon 0.22uF bypasses for a cost of ~ $20 for four 0.22uF, $6.70 for two 20uF caps
https://www.ebay.com/itm/20uF-160V-MATC ... :rk:5:pf:0 and $1 each for 10uF caps
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MBGO-2-10uF-16 ... :rk:1:pf:0It's what makes economic sense, regardless of sonic differences.
3) This is the huge question for Steve (mix4fix). Please, it's not my intention to insult you, but something in your posts is bothering me: your questions about buying pre-made crossovers and trying to discern the crossover point of a filter in a schematic already designed for the speakers you have.
Can you read a schematic? If the answer is no, there is no shame in it. We are willing to help someone who wants to learn. I had several books I would have loaned to you, but sadly, I loaned them to another club member who failed to return them. In fact, he threw them away. So, if it is the case that you need some basic tutoring, I know there are lots of great member suggestions for written books and online educational sites. If you want to know.
If you would like a wiring diagram on how to assemble the recommended crossover on a small piece of 1/4" pressboard, I and I'm sure lots of others, would be willing to make and post a drawing.
If I'm wrong on this, please accept my apologies.
All the best!